Before a long run, and after: a Stag checklist

The day before: the unhurried checks

• Engine oil, check the dipstick and top up to the mark with the right grade. Fresh oil is cheap insurance, and on the Stag clean oil also helps the timing chains.
• Coolant, check the level cold and top up with the correct mix and inhibitor. On the Stag this is the check that matters most (see below).
• Brake fluid, check the master-cylinder level; a dropping level means investigate before you go.
• Tyres, set the pressures cold (including the spare) and look hard at tread and sidewalls; age matters as much as tread on a classic.
• Battery, topped up if needed, secure, terminals clean and tight.
• Lights, wipers and horn, walk round and check the lot.

Cooling: the Stag check that matters most

The Stag's cast-iron block and aluminium heads are unforgiving of a neglected cooling system, so give it special attention before a long run:

• Coolant level and condition, checked cold, top up with the correct mix and the right corrosion inhibitor; tired, discoloured coolant should be renewed, not just topped up.
• Watch for airlocks after any coolant work, they cause overheating that appears from nowhere on a run.
• Check the viscous fan coupling is doing its job and the radiator and hoses are sound (squeeze the hoses; soft or weepy ones let go when hot).
• Know your temperature gauge's normal position, because on the road you'll be watching it.

For the full procedure and the corrosion side of the story, see Coolant, flush & corrosion protection and Cooling upgrades.

Under the bonnet: the pre-trip look

• Belt(s), check tension and condition; no fraying or glazing.
• Leaks, look under the car for fresh oil, coolant or fuel.
• Charging, start up and confirm the alternator is charging: the ignition light should go out as the engine runs, and the voltage sit around 14 V. A light that stays on means investigate before you travel.
• Timing chains, listen on a cold start-up before you set off: a top-end rattle that doesn't quickly clear is your cue to investigate, not to set out on a long trip. See Replacing the timing chains.
• Fuel, enough to reach a station.

The Stag quirks worth a check

• Negative earth, remember it before connecting a battery pack or jump leads; get the polarity right.
• Transmission, check the gearbox/overdrive or automatic fluid to the correct level; on the auto, set it by the dipstick warm and running.
• Carburettors, the twin Zenith-Strombergs should be balanced and pulling evenly; a long run shows up a car that isn't.
• Eight plugs, worth a glance for condition; carry spares.

Spares worth carrying

• A fan belt, coolant (pre-mixed, with the right inhibitor), a set of spark plugs, assorted bulbs and fuses, a length of hose and clips, insulating tape.
• Plus the basics: toolkit, tyre pressure gauge, torch, gloves, rag, a bottle of the right oil and water.

On the road

• Watch the temperature gauge above all, on a Stag it's your early-warning system; if it climbs and keeps climbing, stop before it boils.
• Watch the other gauges, oil pressure healthy, charging steady.
• Listen for new rattles or knocks, and note any change in the exhaust note.
• Smell for hot coolant, oil, fuel or electrics.
• Take a shakedown stop after the first twenty or thirty minutes: a look for leaks and anything working loose while it's warm.

When you get back: the post-trip check

• Look underneath for fresh leaks, especially coolant.
• Re-check the levels once cooled, oil and coolant, since a run can reveal a slow loss.
• Walk round for anything worked loose, a blown bulb or a weeping hose.
• Note what needs attention in the car's history file while it's fresh, a wandering temperature needle, a stiff change, a new noise, so it's on the list before the next outing.
• Wipe it down (especially after rain or salt) and put it away with a good amount of fuel to keep condensation from the tank.